Though Japanese food has become mainstream in the U.S. over the past few decades, the intricacies that define each region remain relatively unknown. If you’re looking to dig a level deeper, why not start with Hokkaido? As Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido is famous for its cold winters, premium dairies and seafood, and bountiful produce.
I sat down with Seattle restaurant Yoroshiku’s Kay Kobayashi to understand what makes the prefecture’s cuisine so unique, and how people can dine Hokkaido-style without making the trip across the Pacific.
What do you think differentiates the cuisine of Hokkaido from the rest of Japan?
When Japanese people think of food from Hokkaido, dairy, seafood, and vegetables come to mind.
The variety of geography plays a big part. Hokkaido is the biggest prefecture in Japan. It’s surrounded by the Pacific Ocean and Sea of Japan, so seafood is very popular. The fertile inland area and climate are a great environment for dairy and vegetables.
The prefecture has coastline, flat farmlands, and mountains. The amount of resources and variety of land allows many ingredients to be grown there rather than be imported, which leads to really fresh food for the people. That’s part of why it’s the most famous food in Japan.
Hokkaido has a strong winter, and the seasons have a great effect on Hokkaido ingredients and dishes as well.
What vegetables do well in that climate and landscape?
Corn, potatoes, and azuki (red beans), which are famous throughout Japan. Calbee, the biggest potato chip company in Japan, uses Hokkaido potatoes. If food producers and restaurants say they’re using Hokkaido potatoes, customers will buy it. The same goes for milk, butter, cheese, and seafood.
So it has become a marketing term now?
Yes, it makes it easy to sell. But when I traveled around Japan and dined in Tokyo, I would try the same items that I had growing up in Hokkaido and was disappointed because I expected it to taste like it did back home. And people who are from Tokyo and go to Hokkaido will be surprised and excited at what tastes like a different dish. The freshness of the ingredients is what really makes it special.
For someone who wants to try Hokkaido cuisine, what dishes would you recommend they try first?
Miso Ramen, which is originally from Hokkaido. A long time ago, people started putting noodles in their miso soup, to make the warm, salty soup more substantial during the harsh winters of Hokkaido.
Other Hokkaido food is also salty, like Zangi, Hokkaido-style fried chicken is cured with soy sauce until it turns very dark. I believe this also came about because locals, especially the older population, craved salty foods during the winter months.
They should also try seafood, especially crab, scallops, uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe). Just like in Seattle, salmon are revered as a very important part of the cuisine.
The dish Zin Gis Kahn is Hokkaido-style lamb barbecue, which is a very popular soul food. Soup curry is a newer dish that was born in Hokkaido.
And they must try soft-serve ice cream, made with Hokkaido milk. It’s so different. It tastes like you’re eating milk — it’s that creamy.
Yoroshiku is an Izakaya-style restaurant. Why do people enjoy Izakaya-style dining in Hokkaido?
The menu and atmosphere of an Izakaya restaurant is very versatile, so it really has something for everyone. People come for just a drink, let loose with a few drinks, or dine in for a full meal.
The great thing is Izakaya has a wide variety of food. It’s not a burger, seafood, or noodle restaurant, but has all of those on the menu. If you and your friends can’t decide what type of food you want, then Izakaya is perfect.
To experience Hokkaido through its unique cuisine, visit Yoroshiku in Wallingford and Bellevue, or try your hand at Kay’s recipe for Chan Chan Yaki. And when planning a trip to Hokkaido, stop by the restaurant for tips from the staff on where to eat in the popular destinations of Sapporo, Niseko, and Hakodate.
Leave a Reply