In early 2008, Kay Kobayashi’s immigration lawyer delivered sobering news: Only six months away from an electrician degree, Kobayashi needed to completely switch careers in order to obtain a visa and stay in the United States. Last month, he opened his fourth restaurant: an '80s-themed yakitori bar called Secret Fort. His first restaurant, Yoroshiku, opened in 2012 as a yakitori bar before pivoting quickly to a ramen izakaya. When the pandemic hit and business slowed, Kobayashi’s thoughts ...
Other Recent stories
Look to Taiwanese night markets for your new favorite fried chicken
With its crunchy outside and tender center, fried chicken seems to never go out of style. Southern-fried chicken went global in the 1970’s and never looked back. Iterations like the Chicken Sandwich Wars and Korean Fried Chicken have blessed us over the past decade. But where can the fried chicken devotee look for other spins…
Explore Lao food with Vaen and Moon Khounoudom of Flavor Lao Bowl
When Asian restaurant owners in the US open a restaurant, it’s not always under the name of their own cuisine. They’re met with the unfortunate reality that Americans are only comfortable with a few countries’ dishes: Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese. So they either go under a guise where the marketing is already done, or…
Dive into Fijian Food with the Brothers of Tolu Seattle
When Americans hear the word “Fiji”, usually the first thing that comes to mind is overpriced bottled water. But those who visit the string of 300 islands are delighted by a layered food scene — one that’s been formed by centuries of colonization, immigration, and native traditions. Brothers Anand, Raajan, and Krishan Kumar are introducing…
A Taste of Trinidadian Food, with Pam Jacob of Pam’s Kitchen
When Pam Jacob opened Pam’s Kitchen in Seattle, she put down roots far away from the Caribbean hubs of New York City and Miami. But after visiting from Trinidad and Tobago in 1987, she decided that Seattle was the perfect place to serve the cuisine of her home island. The spices and freshness of Trinidadian…
A Taste of Cambodia, with Phnom Penh Noodle House’s Diane Le
There are only a handful of Cambodian restaurants in the greater Seattle area. It’s perplexing. Why was Cambodian cuisine left behind as America fell in love with Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese food in the 80s and 90s? I brought this question to Diane Le, one of three sisters who own Phnom Penh Noodle house in…
A Taste of Central Texas, with Jack’s BBQ’s Jack Timmons
American barbecue: one of the few culinary creations that the United States can call their own. At a national level, it’s beef and pork cuts smoked over American wood, and usually served with a sauce. But the nuances pile up as soon as you drive a hundred miles in any direction. The Carolinas are vinegary…
A Taste of Hokkaido, with Yoroshiku’s Kay Kobayashi
Though Japanese food has become mainstream in the U.S. over the past few decades, the intricacies that define each region remain relatively unknown. If you’re looking to dig a level deeper, why not start with Hokkaido? As Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido is famous for its cold winters, premium dairies and seafood, and bountiful produce. I…
Taste at home: Regional Recipes
Cool down the Fijian way: Tolu’s Kokoda recipe
Kokoda is Fiji’s version of a ceviche, but with coconut milk. So you’ve got the sweet of the coconut milk, the acid of the citrus, and the heat of the pepper — it’s all really well-balanced. And on a hot day you enjoy those flavors a little more. – Anand Kumar, part-owner of Tolu This…
Cambodian toast with a twist: Sam Ung’s Prawn Baguette
“I think the story behind this prawn baguette recipe is that my dad’s a true culinary creative. He takes an idea or recipe and transforms it into a different experience. The idea may have started with the Southeast Asian toast and modified to incorporate different flavors from other parts of the world.” – Diane Le,…
Jack’s Texas Caviar: a side of Central Texas to share
“Texas caviar is a unique one that we have on our menu. It’s an old family recipe. It’s a chilled black eyed pea salad with a million kinds of peppers and pimentos and it’s just delicious. My family would eat it with chips and watch the football game.” – Jack Timmons, owner of Jack’s BBQ….
Step into a Hokkaido fishing town with this Chan Chan Yaki recipe
Chan Chan Yaki combines the three ingredients Hokkaido is most famous for: seafood, produce, and dairy. And as we do here in Seattle, Hokkaido locals love their salmon. The region is home to some of the largest salmon fisheries in the world, where this dish started as an easy home-cooked meal for fishermen and their families….
Chef Stories
Pam Jacob of Pam’s Kitchen on the Struggles (and Silver Linings) of a Chef-owner in the Covid-19 pandemic
When I met with Pam Jacob, owner of Pam’s Kitchen in Wallingford, I began asking questions about the history and food of Trinidad. But the conversation quickly turned to Pam’s story and a candid expression of her experience during the pandemic. I’ve split the interview away from the regional discussion as it deserves its own…
“Change is happening”, as Kay Kobayashi adapts to serve Hokkaido cuisine in Seattle
If all had gone to plan, Keisuke (Kay) Kobayashi would be an electrician today and his Seattle restaurant Yoroshiku, specializing in Hokkaido cuisine, would not exist. In our conversation Kay discussed what caused his radical career change, and how Seattle’s appetite for specific dishes prompted Yoroshiku’s own rebirth. When and why did you decide to…