Look to Taiwanese night markets for your new favorite fried chicken

With its crunchy outside and tender center, fried chicken seems to never go out of style. Southern-fried chicken went global in the 1970’s and never looked back. Iterations like the Chicken Sandwich Wars and Korean Fried Chicken have blessed us over the past decade. But where can the fried chicken devotee look for other spins on a deep-fried bird?

The night markets of Taiwan hold one answer: Taiwanese Fried Chicken. It’s also known in the West as Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken.

Though “popcorn chicken” brings to mind the tiny, way-too-bready pieces that KFC serves in a faux-popcorn box, Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken bears no resemblance. Marinated chunks of chicken thigh are covered in a delightfully crumbly coating, and garnished with fried Thai basil leaves.

The dish originated in the night markets of Taiwan, but you can now also find it in markets across China. Stands start by frying bunches of Thai basil in a wok. The chicken is then coated in egg and sweet potato starch, and fried twice in the infused basil oil. Finally, the vendor scoops the chicken and basil into a small paper bag, and equips you with a long toothpick for enjoying on the go.

Nuances in the ingredients separate the dish from its international counterparts. First, sweet potato starch is traditionally used in the breading, as sweet potatoes have been an important Taiwanese crop for centuries. But high costs and Western influence have caused some stands and restaurants to turn to wheat flour.

It took some time to find an importer, but Lucy Ye and Joe Ye of Taiwanese-Fujian restaurant Hangry Panda in Seattle stick with the original. “Sweet potato starch has a crumbly texture which we like, and stays crispy for a long time after you fry it”, according to Joe. The extended time is a bonus in a pandemic where most people order take-out.

White pepper, also common in Taiwanese cuisine, is blended with Chinese five spice and salt to season the coating. Thai basil, which stars in other Taiwanese dishes like Three Cup Chicken, is another key ingredient. In addition to infusing the frying oil, it serves as a garnish for the final dish.

The US street food scene leaves a lot to be desired, but you don’t have to plan a trip to Asia to add Taiwanese Fried Chicken to your rotation. Neighborhoods like Flushing in New York City have welcomed stands into food courts. The dish has also made its way into boba shops and Taiwanese restaurants across the US. The next time you feel a craving for fried chicken coming on, skip the usual suspects, and order the delight that is Taiwanese Fried Chicken.

A big thanks goes to Lucy and Joe Ye, chef-owners of Hangry Panda Seattle, for sharing their knowledge on the dish. If you’re in Seattle, find Taiwanese Fried Chicken at Hangry Panda on Aurora, 19 Gold in Fremont, or other Taiwanese spots across the city.